Shishmaref. . .

I've been in Shishmaref the past two days with a brewing storm. Most flights were cancelled and the weather report was even worse for today. I was advised to fly out of there if I had the chance, so I did. Shishmaref is the infamous island which is the poster child of sorts for global warming, due to the rapid rate of erosion that has been happening over the past 5 years. I have met reporters from People, National Geographic, various Alaska chronicles, and even a Japanese newspaper during my time in Shishmaref. There are proposals in the works to relocate the entire village across the bay to solid land, rather than the sandy spit where it sits now. "They" say that Shishmaref could literally be taken out with one good storm. Hmmm. . . A very scary thought as you are sitting there in the midst of one.

Thankfully, I was able to hop on one of the only flights that came in at about 6:30pm last night. I had a busy trip, working from the moment I landed until the moment that I left. As I near the end of my third year here, it has become apparent that this truly is the bare minimum required stay. My work in Nome is very different than in the villages. The acceptance and trust from the village took a much greater amount of time and work. The first year I was taken with great caution. I was observed and was treated as a novelty. I too was enthralled in the novelty of where I was and what I was doing. By the second year I was more grounded in the realities of the region, both positive and negative. I was entitled to have more ideas and was also accepted by many, but far from all. This third year is new yet again. I have been truly welcomed and accepted as someone who can be trusted. I was given my Eskimo name, Annuraq, which means "little grandmother" or "little wise one". What an honor! It seems to have been the most productive year in terms of tangible evidence that my presence matters in the lives of the people I serve. The trouble is that I, like many before me, make the decision to move on from this place just as they are truly embraced. Since making a firm decision about leaving next year my perspective has shifted and I have begun to treat my time and experiences here with even greater care, for I know it will not be forever.


Most bush planes, like the one which took me to Shishmaref, are very small and not exactly designed for the passengers. The airlines truly function more for cargo than for people. But, one of the airlines has acquired what is known as the "million dollar" plane. It seats 10, has reclining seats, like the big planes, and even has tray tables. I've never flown on it until last night. Wow! What a different experience. It didn't feel quite right actually. I took my coat off, leaned back, and even caught a little nap. In contrast to the flight there, in which there was no heat, I was in the usual uncomfortable metal framed chair and was surrounded tightly by cargo. You'll notice in the picture a pick-up truck, lovingly known as Terminal A. This is one of just a handful of trucks in the village and is a real treat. The more common "terminal" is the sled behind a snowmachine or the muddy racks of a 4-wheeler.

On the left, you can see the skyview sunset at about 6:30pm, which was stunning, and hardly captured here. And, below, you can see the sunrise this morning here in Nome at about 10:30am. We may have our fair share of darkness, but when the light comes, you see that its worth waiting for.

As per your request. . .

I didn't quite know what to think today when I got a phone call and on the other end of the line was barking. . . followed by laughing. . . and at last a voice telling me, "This is your uncle A." (That would be Alan, my mama's brother) He then says, "I'm barking for the new dog website." He says, "What about Erik? Do we get to see pictures of him too, or is it just going to be dogs?" Anyone who knows me, knows that most things, even my boyfriend, takes a backseat to my precious dogs. I'm not sure what that says about me, but I imagine you all have some analysis for me. In any case, Erik is quite a joy in my life too, and for those of you that don't know him, I'd like to introduce him to you here.

Erik and I met in March 2004 through a mutual friend here in Nome. He was visiting for Iditarod. In June 2004 he decided to move here and pursue a job and me :) Erik is from Seal Beach, California and has never lived (and barely travelled) outside of that sunny state. But, something about Alaska grabbed him and here he came. Over the last year and a half we have shared so many wonderful adventures and experiences. He is a kind, loving, and gentle person who I have truly enjoyed (most of the time). Erik has been working as a heavy equipment operator for as long as he's had a job and it was no different here. He has worked the past two summers for Nome Joint Utilities. But, with the harsh winter we face, there is little need for his skills during these months. So, Erik has decided to return to San Diego this winter. He departs out of Nome on November 16th and will be missed!

Here are a few pictures of he and I this past year. . . in Alaska and Costa Rica. So, Uncle Alan (and anyone else who may have been interested), there you go. This is Erik.

Trouble in Paradise. . .

I've heard nothing but wonderful things about this blogging stuff, but I must say, at this moment, I am afraid I think its for the birds. As you may have noticed I have posted only one little note. I've had more to post, as well as pictures, but just can't seem to streamline it and make it happen. Sweet, diligent Dillon is working on the problem(s) and encouraging me to be patient (not my best quality). So, for now, I will. I hope that we will figure it out and that this will develop to be the place that I had hoped. Check back with me later. . .

Thank you Dillon!