Bittersweet Departure

I reluctantly left Utila this morning. Had my last dive, a night dive yesterday and then just made the decision that I was going to move on and see Copan before I leave. I didn't leave empty handed though. My friend Lucas decided to join me. We made it to the mainland, La Ceiba, early this morning. Right off the ferry, we caught a taxi to Jungle River Lodge and went on an incredible rafting trip.We went down the Rio Cangrejal, which is located in Pico Bonito National Park. The river was huge and stunning.


I know I keep saying that this or that is amazing, but this time, I must mean it even more than the last. This river was truly an amazing sight. I hope that some of you may have a chance to see it and experience like I did today. . . someday.
The rocks that surrounded the river were the biggest I've ever seen. We had no idea what exactly we were in for. The trip started out leaving our raft and heading up stream. The guides wanted to play a little this morning, so they took us on a bit of an obstacle course that isn't exactly included in the usual trip. We hiked through the river and found out we were boulder jumping into the rapids before we were actually rafting them. At one place we were on the top of a really smooth faced rock and we actually layed down on the rock and slid into the river, picking up plenty of speed on the way down the slide. There were a couple more stops along the trip where we did some more boulder jumping, the biggest was about 30 ft. You needed a bit of a running start atop the massive boulder and then would land into perfect, clear blue/green water. As soon as you reached the surface for air you were getting sucked down a little chute of a rapid between two more big boulders. Incredible! The rafting was hard work and so much fun. I've been on big rapids before, but the difference with this trip was the size of the river. It was so big. The rapids were comparable to others I've been on, with one important differnce. . . the rapids turned into waterfalls. We went down at least 3 mini waterfalls that helped me experience more adrenaline than I have had in a very long time or maybe ever. There were a few exits from the boat today, two from me, three from Lucas. This was Lucas's first time whitewater rafting so it was really fun to see his reaction to it. He loved it almost as much as I did I think. We will spend the night here in La Ceiba and then get on a bus early in the morning to head to Copan. Just four days left. I don't know how I'm really going to leave.

Will I be able to leave?

I've been diving like crazy. There is such incredible beauty under the water. I really do love it. Its so interesting to be 100 ft. below the surface and feel completely free and weightless. When you reach the surface again all of your senses that you forget about during the dive hit you like a wall. You are heavy and your breath is harder, there is noise, the light is back. . . you are starving. I still don't know quite what that is about, but after a dive, you just need to eat and drink. All I can think is that you actually are working harder than you think down there and that the salt water dehydrates you.

Anyway, in addition to diving, I'm having a really great time with people that I've met. Utila is a dream world for me. Its just so incredibly perfect that I can hardly even describe it to myself, let alone anyone else. I want to move here. No joke. I don't know how I would really do it, but its definitely a thought that I'm going to ponder. Its a very special little place.

My friend Lucas and I rented a golf cart yesterday and drove all around the island on some back roads that I hadn't yet seen. Iguanas and geckos everywhere.


He is a local and he took me to this fresh water cave that was amazing and is relatively unknown.


It was in the middle of jungle and there was absolutely no way of knowing that it was there. It was so nice to get into freshwater after being in salt water all day everyday.


The water was cold, unlike the ocean which is luke warm, so it was so so refreshing. It was a tad freaky and when the shrimp was nibbling on my foot and the crab was crawling over my shoulder simultaneously, and I must admit, I did lose it just a bit. Oh that was a wierd feeling!


More diving through Saturday or Sunday and then I'm probably going to head out of Utila. And that is a very big probably. I'll have just 4 days left at that point and I'd like to try and make it to Copan to see the Myan Ruins. I won't be surprised a bit if it doesn't happen. I'm so in love with Utila that I may not be able to make myself leave before I absolutely have to. We'll see what happens?


One week left. . .

Revenge of the Gringa. . .

Something that I haven't mentioned both because its so frustrating and because I'm a little embarrassed and my poor decision. . . was the fact that I was fighting with the Spanish school in Tela to get my money back. Prior to my trip I had reserved 3 weeks at the school and hostel. I guess I knew myself well enough to have some idea that I may not decide to do the full time there so I was very clear with them about whether or not I could cancel early for a refund. I was told yes. I tried to pay just weekly, but they insisted that I pay in full. They assured me that if I had to go early, it would be no problem to get my money back. I knew in my heart that I shouldn't give them all my money. But, I did anyway. . . I still don't know why. Well, as you have read, it was a problem getting my money back and I left Tela almost $400 short of what I was owed. My teacher was fantastic and most of the staff at the hostel were great as well, but when it came time for that refund things got ugly. I was put off, lied to, told to meet at certain times and places for the rest of my money only to be left standing alone for hours. Finally, I made the decision to cut my losses and move on. . . determined not to have my experiences ruined by money. As always, I remembered what my mother often says, "at least its just money." Isn't that the truth? But, clearly, I don't just have $400 to throw away and I was extremely frustrated at how things were handled with me. Part of the money had been paid on my visa prior to the trip and so I tried calling them to find out about stopping the payment or retrieving the money somehow. I figured it was a long shot, but worth a try. Well, it was a breeze. I told the visa rep. exactly what happened and with no arguement was told that they would credit my card the money back due to the fact that services were not rendered and the cancellation policy was not upheld. It is now up to the spanish school to provide documentation that the services were rendered. . . which they cannot do. I was relieved, but still thought I'd wait to see if the credit actually appeared back on my card. Well, today I checked and there it was. $342, just a few buck shy of what was owed back to me is now back in my hands. Thanks for the help visa!

I love mud between my toes!

Took a bike ride up one of only a few roads on this little island, and with the help of my new friend, Lucas, found my way to the water tower.

It was warm and sunny today, but we got several, few minute downpours, one of which was during the bike ride, so I ended up completely drenched and muddy. Smile. Anyway, we made it to this water tower and climbed up a pretty sketchy, slippery, metal ladder. . . well worth it. . . to the top where you could see the entire island.
It was so beautiful and such a cool view. I've never been on the top of a point like that where you can see the whole mass of land that you are on. Loved it! And being drenched and slipping in the mud as it was squeezing up between my toes made it that much better. Really.

I've decided to get my Advanced Scuba Certification instead of do another week of Spanish. But, I'm taking my mom's advice and only speaking Spanish while I'm diving. Isn't she cute? The class includes 9 dives. . . some are required skill building for bouyancy, breathing control, etc. But, 5 are elective dives and I think I'm going to do a night dive, maybe a wreck dive (there is a ship wreck on the north side of the island at about 30 meters), maybe a photography dive. . . there are lots to choose from. Should be a really fun week.

Utila is truly a paradise and I must, must return. Honduras is really a special place that I will always remember for so many reasons!

Hope all is well. . .

Hello Utila!

After sleeping most of the day on Wednesday, I was up early and feeling better by Thursday. I knew I wanted to make my way to Utila, but wasn't ready to say goodbye to Sambo Creek yet either. I ventured off for a hike in the hills before I left and came upon a small canopy tour company right where I was hiking. Although I did this sort of thing in Costa Rica, it looked fun enough to do again. What a treat it turned out to be. The ziplines were much longer and faster than in Costa Rica and the scenery had an added element to just the jungle. On most of the lines you were ripping through with nothing but the jungle in sight, but on several you could see the ocean off in the distance as well. It was magnificent. The two guides were cuties so that didn't hurt things at all either. Midway through the ziplines we stopped to hike to these hotsprings. The top pool was literally boiling. Not just a simmer, but rapid huge bubbling water. I've never seen anything like it. From there it mixed with a cold river and made waterfalls down to five separte pools big enough to actually swim in. All were naturally formed and incredible. You could lay up against the rocks and just let the warm water run over your face. The guides showed us this red mud/clay that the locals use to bathe with. I rubbed it all over my body and face and then basked in the sun. When I rinsed it off my skin felt as soft as a baby's bum, no joke. The best shower of my life!

I got back to my room in just enough time to gather my things and head to La Ceiba to catch a boat to Utila at 4pm. The trip was brutal. The boat took turns the entire 2 hour trip, on either of its sides. Swells so big it was scary.

I suppose the only good thing about being prone to sea sickness is the fact that you are too busy puking to worry about being scared of anything else. Anyway, I obviously survived and got my feet firmly planted on solid ground at almost 7pm last night. In Thailand I had vowed to never get on one of those small stinkin' "yachts" again. I had gotten so sea sick while I was there that it was just something I never wanted to experience again. Well, I'm glad that I had forgotten that vow, because although the trip sucked, Utila is sublime! The scene this morning alone was worth the boat trip. I was up at 6am to a shining sky and an empty dock with a lone hammock right over the water. I read my book and just enjoyed the sounds of the birds and the feel of the breeze.

This will be a wonderful place to settle for a while. The people again are supremely friendly and there is yet another culture here. The islanders speak mainly creole English, which I can only compare to sort of a Jamaican style. But, really its not even that. Its often even harder to understand than Spanish. Truly like another language in itself.
I went to a big bbq on one of the docks last night and met so many great people. A local man named Lucas consumed much of my time. We sat on hammocks overlooking the crystal clear water and gabbed about my culture vs. his. . . and then took a late night swim. Very fun.

Now the question is. . . scuba or more spanish?

A Soul Connection, Sambo Creek, and the Hospital

A Soul Connection: I left Tela on Sunday morning and hopped on a bus to La Ceiba. On the bus I had what can only be described as a soul connection. The closest thing in my life to something that remotely felt like fate. Somehow everything was a little bit off on Sunday. Everything I did that morning was strange. I didn't feel myself and instead sort of felt like I was in a robotic state just going through motions that I wasn't exactly directing. I was beginning to feel sick on Saturday night so I just attributed what felt like a cloudy head, to that. But, I now think that it was more than that. I believe that I got up at the time I did, walked at the pace I did, and got the bus that I did for a reason... to meet Alexis Javier Martinez. Its hard to really describe, but I was only moments from not getting on that bus and then from not sitting in the seat that I did. When I looked down at the man offering me a seat next to him I felt something I have never experienced before. It was like magic. A wave of tingles and chills and an immediate connection to this person that I did not know. It was incredible. I sat down and we shook hands for what felt like an hour, but was actually about 5 min. It was like we couldn't not look at one another. We spent the next 2 hours on the bus just talking away with absolute comfort and ease.


My plan was to go to La Ceiba and then either bus or taxi to a nearby Garifuna Village called Sambo Creek. I heard that it was a really interesting and beautiful place and that there was a nice place to stay on the beach. I wasn't sure of anything when I got on the bus, except that I was going to try to get to Utila within a day or two to take another week of Spanish classes. I mentioned to Alexis that I was thinking about trying to spend a night in Sambo Creek and he just smiled and said that Sambo Creek was his home and that he could take me wherever I needed to go. He also told me that the bus I was on was the one that goes to Sambo Creek instead of just La Ceiba. In an instant I knew I would stay on the bus and that we would spend more time together. Alexis lives in San Pedro Sula, but comes back to bring money to his family once a month. He is the only one in his family who speaks English or who has left the village. Alexis and I spent almost every waking moment together from the time I stepped onto the bus, until today, and it truly feels like I have known him in another life. He is a very special soul and although I don't know if I will ever see him again, I will never forget this time. I wish there was a way for me to actually describe this experience, but there isn't. It is far deeper than words can explain and I could go on, but I won't.

Sambo Creek: This truly is among the most beautiful places that I've ever seen.


It is, as I said, a small Garifuna village outside of the large city La Ceiba. It is a thick jungle with little shack houses interspersed between lush growth.


There are two rivers that flow through the community and on one side of the village there is an incredible white sand beach, while the other side has tall green mountains.


The population is primarily Garifuna, however, it has grown to include some Hispanic Hondurans and Caucasians. There are a couple of hotels, a few restaurants and a few tiny convenience stores.


Dogs, horses, chickens, and iguanas run free. The people are fantastic. Granted, I encountered them while accompanied by Alexis, who is known and loved here, but their lovely nature seemed genuine regardless of that. The children are the best.


Always so curious with such wonderful spirits. Another little boy captured my heart and has come to greet me each morning and again in the afternoon. 9 year old Dickson, who is trying to learn English all by himself.


It is not taught in school here. He is absolutely precious and today he brought me a puppy to hold because I told him that I missed my dogs. I have had an amazing experience here and am not ready to go.

The Hospital: Alexis had to leave to return to San Pedro Sula today so we said goodbye. We may meet again before I leave, but I'm not exactly sure when? Aside from the sublime emotional experience I had with Alexis and in Sambo the past three days, I have unfortunately been getting increasingly ill since Saturday evening. Today was the worst yet with a fever, horrible cough, congestion, body aches, etc. If I was home I would think nothing of it and simply take a day or two off work and sleep, but here it is a different story. Every traveler I have met is taking Malaria pills, something recommended for tourists in this part of the world, but just as I always have, I decided against it before I went. What I've learned about Malaria is that it starts with symptoms just like the common cold or flu. So, as I've gotten a little sicker each day, I've worried just a little bit more. But, it has also been cool and rainy on and off so I was imagining that I was just sensitive to the weather. Then, today, the people who own the hotel where I am staying noticed how I've been getting worst and said that I should go to the doctor to check and make sure I don't have Malaria or Denge. It wasn't until then that I really became scared. I called Mike (my friend who is a doctor in Nome), at what I later found out was 4 in the morning, to talk to him before going to the hospital. He reassured me a little by letting me know that Malaria or Denge are not necessarily fatal and that my symptoms didn't actually sound like either one. Well, he was right. I took a bus into the city and went to the hospital where I went through the usual routine and got a blood test. 5 hours later, they were able to tell me that I did not have Malaria or Denge, but that I did have some sort of bronchial thing... They wrote a script for something, but I opted not to get it. I prefer not to take medicine if I don't have to and in this case, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to die... Its been a pretty stressful day, but alas I can relax. I still feel pretty terrible, but at least I'm no longer scared.

Spanish School is not on the agenda this week, but likely will be next. We'll see. As you can see by the droning of this last post, I have been on the computer way too long... so for now, I will go. Happy Heart Day!


Peace

They Say It's Good Luck

The eco-tour I went on today to Los Micos was fantastic. However, I was the one and only who got eaten alive by sand flies. I've never had anything quite like it... I felt a little bit of itching on my legs and by the time I looked down, my legs, ankles and feet were covered with little red spots. They were not bumps, just spots. Perfect red circles as if someone had taken a pen and dotted me all over. Before I could ask what it was, some of the children in the village and the guide looked at me with big smiles and with a general excitement. I was told that the sand fly bites are a sign of Good Luck to come. Strange sign if you ask me. It was fun to see the reactions though. Nobody else got the bites and I couldn't help but wonder why me. Maybe I need the luck, eh? All but a few of the dots faded within a few hours. Anyway, the tour was really wonderful today. We saw crocodiles, monkeys, tons of birds, turtles... Very beautiful. We toured this huge lagoon that is part of Punta Sal national park and is the fishing grounds for the last true Garifuna village in Honduras. There are many villages still, but this is the only one that is still comprised completely of thatched roof huts of bamboo. The people were so great. After boating through the lagoon we spent several hours in the village playing with the kids, relaxing on the beach and swimming in the lagoon. We ate fresh yellow snapper and fried platanos for lunch that was absolutely delicious. One side of the village is the Caribbean ocean, the other, the lagoon. Not a bad life. The kids were the best. I made friends with one little boy in particular. His name was Ayer and he was 11. He had the most beautiful smile and was oozing with soul and goodness. I'm moving on to La Ceiba tomorrow.


Thank you all for keeping up with me and posting your thoughts. I appreciate it and the company is nice. To answer a few of you, yes, I am, of course, taking lots of pictures. I will try to post some to these blogs when I get home so that you can see a little of what I have. Its been a wonderful week and I'm looking so forward to what is ahead in the next 3.

Cerra... no armed guard will be following me home... nice thought, but no.

Peace

Good Times

Went out last night for my first night on the town, so to speak. Had an amazing dinner. Lobster, the best I've ever had. I was lured to the restaurant by the sounds of Garifuna dancers/singers/drummers performing in the restaurant. It was great. Afterward I followed the sound of more music and found my way to a club that I didn't go in. But, it was next door to a pool hall.

Full of men and not at all an inviting place for a girl, but I went in anyway. Had such a fun night. Met a gay couple right away who were tons of fun to talk to and practiced my Spanish with me while we played pool.
Spanish went awesome this week, although, very hard. I had my last session today. I have already noticed a HUGE improvement in how I'm able to communicate with others. Its pretty cool. I'm going on an eco-tour tomorrow to a national park called Los Micos. Supposedly chalked full of monkeys. Hence the name, eh? Fun, fun. I'm moving on to La Ceiba on Sunday or Monday and will take another week of Spanish there.
Today I did a little resort crashing at a posh place down the road
then, took a nice long bike ride to and through Lancetilla Botanical Garden. One of the largest in the world. Was planning this earlier in the week, but the rain held me back. Today it was perfect though. It was sooooooo beautiful. Truly amazing. Found this huge swimming hole on the river with the help of my armed guard who followed me through the park.

I basked under an umbrella of bamboo in teal green water. I must have floated around in that pool for an hour. It was the best. I haven't wanted to admit it for some reason, but I think that the truth is my heart is much more wooed by rivers than the ocean. It is so fresh and peaceful.

I love it! Anyway, Tela is sort of a pilot project for the Honduran tourist police. The country decided to increase the force by almost half as much as it was and publicize that tourists should feel free to ask for an escort no matter where or when you are going. I didn't ask for one today, but I got one anyway and he was lovely. It was a little strange having a man with a big gun following me around, but he was great and I did feel safe.

There is some housing within the Botanical Garden, I believe for the workers, and there was a place that had a brand new, one month old baby horse. So cute. She let me get pretty close to her and we visited a bit. The momma was nowhere in sight, but the human momma visited with me a little. I didn't get to give the baby any love, but she did stay close and play near the river with me. So fun!
Anyway, all is well.... Hope you are too!

Peace

Change of Plans

Can you believe that I've already decided to change my plans? Well, I have. I am just too curious to stay put. I really want to see more of the country while I'm here. I spoke with my teacher about this and she suggested that I end sessions this week and move on to another place and another school. She directed me to another private instructor at a school in Utila, one of the Bay Islands, that she knows and used to work with. She too thought it would be a shame not to see more while I'm here. She assured me that I can pick up right where I am now with the next teacher. She also gave me a contact for yet another teacher and school in Roatan, another Bay Island. So, I may still complete the three weeks of instruction, just in a little different way. I'm pretty excited about it.

I will remain in Tela until the end of the week and plan to spend the weekend on the outskirts at a National Park-Reserve called Punta Sal. This borders a Garifuna village and has mangroves that are supposed to be fun to navigate through with a kayak.

Its pouring rain today and has been since about 6pm last night. There isn't the greatest drainage in the city and the streets are about ankle deep now. The rain is nice and warm so playing in it for a bit was fun today. I think I'll retreat to my guesthouse and study my spanish. My teacher wants me to make flashcards today....

In response to my momma... You sound aghast at my lack of arrangements, but I must say, that I do believe that I would have worked it out somehow. As it turned out, working it out just became much easier and I am so grateful for that. I have never had plans when I travel though. That is part of the process. Figuring it out and discovering it as you go is what I love about travelling in other countries. Americans, I've learned, are obsessed with reservations, arrangements, packages... etc, etc. You don't have to be. If you are flexible and adventurous you can find your way almost anywhere.

And to Alan, yes, the ocean is included...

Love to you all...

Spanish Teacher

I'm reminded of grad school with my new Spanish Teacher. I am actually excited about studying because I'm so interested in it. She raves about my enthusiasm and ability. .. says I must have been an A student. Not until grad school, I told her. Its amazing how fun learning is when you really want to know the information though. So, kids, that's the trick. If it doesn't light you up inside, you're studying the wrong thing. Find something that makes you feel excited and passionate and suddenly you will succeed, I'm sure of it. Day two and I'm feeling great about my sessions, but also a little overwhelmed. She says I'm doing well, but I feel like I'm fumbling greatly.

My teacher's name is Shorley. She is a tall, beautiful black woman from Jamaica who was raised in Honduras. At 40 years old, she looks 25, no joke. After session yesterday she walked me around town and pointed out some fav restaurants, bakeries, shops. . . street carts to trust and sweet dogs that you can count on being at certain corners. She is a dog lover like me. We walked the beach a bit together and visited about life, part in Spanish, part in English. She seems to be a really lovely person. Very kind and enthusiastic about teaching. She has been a teacher for 20 years now. I feel very lucky to have her as mine.

Heading to the world's largest botanical garden today. Long bike ride first, then a hike through it eventually to a river. Can't wait to see all the beautiful butterflies. . .

Peace

Arrived in Tela!

After 2 days and about 15 hours of flying, plus layovers, I finally arrived in San Pedro Sula last night at about 7:30pm. Homero picked me up and drove me the 2 1/2 hour drive to Tela. Thank goodness! There were no buses running at that time and taxis were even a bit scarce. The road was decent with only a few surprise potholes, bumps... and animals. There were as many stray horses as there were dogs. Any of you who have traveled even to Mexico know what the stray dog population can look like. Well, imagine as many horses wandering around like that as well. It was such a sight. The road between San Pedro Sula and Tela had only a few spots which resembled towns and the rest was lush green growth, hence the wandering horses eating away at the roadside. Even in the dark it was quite beautiful.

In Tela I had just a little trouble finding the guesthouse, but Homero wasn't worried and eventually we saw it. I was greeted by a very eccentric English speaking Garifuna named David. The place was extremely clean and so quiet I couldn't tell that there was anyone else even there. My room is great. Comfy bed with clean linens and soft pillows. Cold shower and a flush toilet. I was spoiled last year in Costa Rica with warm showers. Getting back to the cold water reminds me of Thailand traveling.

I slept well and walked the town a bit this morning. I am in the heart of this little place... There is a great park a block away where people gather and where shops, bakeries, and restaurants line the streets surrounding. Two blocks away there is an incredible beach that I plan to enjoy more this afternoon.

My Spanish Teacher is set to arrive anytime now so I will end here.

Peace...

Somebody's Lookin' Out!

There is no doubt in my mind that I am a fortunate and blessed individual. Two days ago I mentioned to a public health nurse, Sherry, that works down the hall from me that I was heading to Honduras. Her eyes lit up as she said, "oh, my son is a missionary there." We visited a little bit about his mission work and her experiences there when she visited a couple of years ago.

I am flying into San Pedro Sula, which is not known to be the safest of travel destinations. I am not staying there for any longer than to just catch a bus to take the 3 hour drive to Tela on the coast. However, it is one spot on my itinerary that I have not been able to make clear arrangements for. I shared with Sherry that I was a little nervous about that first night and coordinating my bus trip since I arrive in the evening at 7pm. She then went on to say that in additon to supporting her son's mission work, she also helps a Pastor named Homero Romero who lives in San Pedro Sula. She explained that she met him, his wife and 4 kids when she visited her son a couple of years ago. She went on to talk about what amazing people he and his wife are and how they would do absolutely anything to help another person. She said that she would try emailing him to see if he might be available to meet me at the airport and direct me to the bus I should take to Tela. Well, she did reach him and he insisted that he and his family would greet me at my gate and drive me to Tela personally. No argument. I'm sure this is, in part, a favor to Sherry who provides support to him. But, it also seems clear to me that he must be a generous and loving person who is just, to put it simply, good.

I feel so grateful and appreciative! I feel a sense of calm that I didn't have yesterday. I know that this will be just the right tone to start this journey out for me and I couldn't feel luckier. There is no doubt in my mind that someone is looking out for me!

I leave in less than 24 hours and I still have a house to clean, a birthday party to throw for my roommate Cherie, a cake to bake, and, are you ready, I still have to pack!

Have a wonderful February. I'll try to get a few notes up on the blog while I'm away. . .

Peace!